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Growing Potato

(Solanum tuberosum)

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
              P P P    

(Best months for planting Potato in Australia - temperate regions)

P = Plant direct in garden where they are to grow.


  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with: Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing with: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary
  • An 'earthed-up' row
  • Potato flowers

Seed potatoes

Potatoes sold in nurseries and produce stores are certified seed potatoes. Seed potatoes are small potatoes (usually fairly dried up and wrinkled) which are free of viruses and other diseases. You are more likely to get a good crop from certified seed potatoes.

Before planting expose seed potatoes to light to start shoots growing. Avoid direct sun as this can burn or par-cook the seed! Let the potatoes grow shoots up to 1cm long - this can take a few weeks. In hot or dry climates sprout seed potatoes in seed trays of dampened potting mix.

Large seed tubers can be cut into pieces - just make sure each piece has at least one 'eye' or shoot. Let the cut pieces dry for a few days before planting or else they will probably start rotting.

Growing in the ground

Prepare the soil by digging in plenty of well-rotted animal manure or compost (don't use fresh manure as it will 'burn' plants). Dig a trench for the seed potatoes about 30 - 40cm wide and 10 - 20cm deep. Add a bit more compost/manure to the bottom of the trench and cover with some soil. Put seed potatoes 20 - 30cm apart in the trench, shoot-side up. Fill in the trench to cover the potatoes.

As potato shoots start to appear, cover them up with soil from either side of the trench. 'Hill up the crop' this way a few times in the first four or five weeks of growth, which gives the potatoes an nice loose mound of soil in which to grow. Now leave the shoots to develop on to form leaves.

Keep potatoes well-watered. The soil should be damp enough to stick to your fingers.

No-dig and container growing - ideal for home gardens

If you don't have a ton of space then no-dig and container growing both work well for home garden growing. Using container growing you can produce potatoes in any handy space, even on balconies.

No-dig

Make a no-dig bed of potatoes by layering newspapers (or flattened cardboard boxes) at least six layers thick on an area to be planted. Spread your seed potatoes on top of the newspapers about 30cm apart, trying to get the shoots pointing upwards.

Cover the potatoes with layers of compost, weed-free straw, rotted animal manure, and other mulch materials, until the potatoes are covered by about 20 - 30cm. Don't flatten the cover down.

Water well. As the potatoes start to grow through, add more layers of mulch material and keep watered. After about four weeks of growing through and covering up, let the potatoes grow on without covering. As the mulch breaks down keep adding more mulch to keep the tubers covered.

Container growing

Get a container at least 40 - 50 cm deep with holes in the bottom for drainage. Shrub-sized flower pots work well. An old wheelbarrow will work if holes are drilled in the bottom. You can also make a 'container' using loose bricks or chicken wire.

Put about 10 - 20cm of mixed compost and potting mix in the bottom of the container and put your seed potatoes on top, about 30cm apart. Cover with about 10 - 20cm of compost mixed with mulch (straw, grass clippings. Water well.

As the potato shoots start to grow through, cover up with more compost and mulch mix and keep watered. Keep on covering up for about four weeks (but stop if you reach the top of the container!)

For both no-dig and container growing, keep the mulch well watered - wet enough to stick to your fingers but not sopping. If the potatoes dry out they will probably go scabby.

  • The longer potatoes grow, the bigger the tubers will be.
  • Don't grow potatoes in the same place as other solanum crops as they share many diseases - for example, don't grow potatoes to follow a tomato crop, or vice-versa.
  • You can start harvesting a few tubers as soon as they are big enough to eat - dig around under the plants and retrieve a few, and cover up the rest to keep growing.
  • Potatoes exposed to light will go green, so keep them covered up with straw and soil as they grow. Green potatoes are poisonous!
  • Potatoes accumulate cadmium and other heavy metals, so avoid fertilizers which contain these elements. Similarly, avoid using tyres as containers for growing potatoes as they can leach heavy metals.

Culinary hints - cooking and eating Potato

Peeled or unpeeled and scrubbed, potatoes can be boiled, baked, fried and roasted. - The only way they are not used is raw.

Keep in a pot of cold water after peeling, otherwise they will discolour.


Your comments and tips

09 Jan 12, Michelle (Australia - temperate climate)
We had 6-8 potato plants grow after planting. We built up the dirt with bricks around them, but now all but two have died once covered with more dirt. I was told you could harvest once they flowered and they have been in the ground for a good two to three months. However, when we dug them up there was only two pea sized potatoes on one of the vines, which was disappointing to say the least. Any ideas?
03 Feb 12, James (Australia - temperate climate)
I had the same problem but I was growing them in winter, which season were you growing in? Generally the longer you leave the potatoes the larger they get, it should be harvest time when the plant starts to die. Give them a bit more time. Did you add any nutrients to the soil? Other than that I can't think of where you may have gone wrong, maybe the potatoes were disease infested, did the dying plants appear to be suffering from disease?
03 Jan 12, Gina (Australia - temperate climate)
I have grown potatoes several times but never had flowers. I harvest potatoes (when I get sick of waiting for the flowers) but can't understand why everyones says "wait till it flowers". Do all varieties flower??
06 Jan 12, Tracey (Australia - temperate climate)
No, not all potato varieties flower. If you have the patience, wait until the plant dies, then you can be sure you've waited long enough. If I'm after new potatoes I start bandicooting at around the 90 day mark, or when the plant starts to look a bit ratty.
07 Nov 11, Sylvana (Australia - temperate climate)
The potato plants in our pre-school are starting to die down and ready for harvest in about two weeks. The children are eager to harvest them. Can the pre-school catering cook, clean and cook the potatoes immediately after harvesting them, or do they have to cure first for 10 days? thank you Grandmother to a pre-schooler Sylvana
07 Nov 11, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Sylvana - Yes, you can use the potatoes straight away. They will be delicious 'new' potatoes which just need their skins rubbed off before cooking. The drying time is to ensure that potatoes will keep in storage. It hardens the skins.
21 Jun 11, Arthur (Australia - temperate climate)
I put my sweet potatoes in a cardboard box in dry sand two weeks ago close to a heater inside the house.Checking I found little white shoots apearing.Ive planted some I.ll let you how the are going in about three weeks time'
14 Apr 11, stella (Australia - temperate climate)
i had thrown few potatoes that i didnt use in a make shift compost pot..but now there has been 2 potato plants growing they are like 15cm tall..will i be able to harvest potatoes from there???
30 Oct 11, Bruce (Australia - arid climate)
Yes
08 Jan 11, dave (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
my potato vines are growing berrys that look like tiny tomatoes about the size of a marble is this normal ?
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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.

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