Growing Beans - climbing, also Pole beans, Runner beans, Scarlet Runners

Phaseolus vulgaris, Phaseolus coccineus : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec

(Best months for growing Beans - climbing in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 4 - 8 inches apart
  • Harvest in 9-11 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Sweetcorn, spinach, lettuce, summer savory, dill, carrots, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry, cucumbers, zucchini, tagates minuta (wild marigold)
  • Avoid growing close to: Alliums (Chives, leek, garlic, onions), Florence fennel
  • A few young Scarlet Runners
  • Purple climbing beans

Grow beans up fences, trellis, sweet corn, trees. Almost anywhere can be 'vertically productive'.

Keep well watered and pick regularly to encourage new flowers. Watch out for snails, as they will eat through the stems near ground level, and will completely eat newly sprouted beans. If you have nice new beans plants one day, and none the next, then it is probably slugs or snails.

Culinary hints - cooking and eating Beans - climbing

Use young in salads - blanch and cool. Will freeze well.

Your comments and tips

18 May 24, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
In addition: Where large amounts of farmyard manure have been used, molybdenum deficiency is less likely.
18 May 24, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 8a Mild Temperate climate)
I think everyone knows beans need Mycorrhizal fungi to grow well -- Mycorrhizal fungal filaments in the soil are truly extensions of root systems and are more effective in nutrient and water absorption than the roots themselves. More than 95 percent of terrestrial plant species form a symbiotic relationship with beneficial mycorrhizal fungi. Forest floor duff contains MF and can be easily added to your compost bin, or directly in the desired areas. ADDITIONALLY - beans need Molybdenum (compost banana peels are a good source of Molybdenum). Molybdenum-bearing enzymes are by far the most common bacterial catalysts for breaking the chemical bond in atmospheric molecular nitrogen in the process of biological nitrogen fixation. - In legumes such as clovers, lucerne, beans and peas, molybdenum serves two functions. The plant needs it to break down any nitrates taken up from the soil—in the same way as non-legumes use molybdenum. And it helps in the fixation of atmospheric nitrogen by the root nodule bacteria. Legumes need more molybdenum to fix nitrogen than to utilise nitrates. --- The take away --- don't forget the forest floor duff and banana peels around your beans.
25 Aug 23, Jan (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Why do my beans, be they climbing or bush, always develop rust on the leaves. Once the climbers reach about 30cm they develop brown spots on underside and if left the rust becomes very powdery and the leaves become distorted. I cut these leaves off and put in the bin. This happens to any bean seeds I plant and happens no matter what bin I plant them in. I might add I do get a good lot of beans, they do not seem to be affected (I do think I could have a longer growing season if the rust was not there) and so far the rust has not affected any other vegetables. Could there be something in the soil that causes this rust and what can I do about it. I do make my own compost and fertilise the soil before planting.
22 Sep 23, Faith Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
From a publication (University of Mass) CORRECTIVE ACTION IS: 1. Rotate bean with non-host crops. 2.Plow under infected crop residues. 3.Eliminate volunteer bean plants. 4.Select planting dates and schedule irrigation to avoid long periods of leaf wetness when temperatures are warm. 5.Disinfect poles in production of pole beans. 5.Avoid over application of nitrogen and ensure adequate potassium fertilization. 6.Plant resistant cultivars. ==> your issue is the rust sort of creates these pustules that allow the rust to survive over winter, or during crop rotations. You need to ensure you dig the old plants deep into the soil, clean your equipment (poles, garden gloves etc.). I would be inclined to use SULPHUR -- "Sulphur Dust Fungicide and Miticide" is usually what it is called. This dust can be sprinkled all over, on the plants etc. or can be mixed with water and sprayed. Also avoid planting beans in areas of "stagnant air" the plants need to be able to dry out -- in other words water on the plants (moist leaves and stems) are great breeding grounds for your rust. It's actually not a difficult problem to resolve, once you know what needs to be done -- remove and bury infected leaves, and/or sprinkle with sulphur dust, mitigate moisture retention (get the air flow going -- maybe you change up the arrangement of planting so the air flows through the plants and whisks away the moisture.
06 Sep 23, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Try googling about the rust problem.
17 Jul 23, Jim Kwasnik (USA - Zone 8b climate)
Here are a few notes and comments regarding
25 Jun 23, Anonymous (USA - Zone 9b climate)
I put my beans in a wet paper towel then put the paper towel in a baggie. I store them under the kitchen sink for a few days and they sprout. Then I take them out and plant them. This has worked well for me. I don’t plant the ones that do not sprout.
04 Mar 23, Tim (USA - Zone 9a climate)
I would like your suggestions as to the best vegetable to follow pole beans in the rotation plan, please.
06 Mar 23, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
There are two main things to think about when practicing crop rotation. The first; what condition (nutrition, minerals, tilth) will this crop leave the soil in. In this case your current crop is beans -- they fix their own nitrogen, so their roots will be full of nitrogen nodules (little white bubbles) and provided you just turn the roots into the ground -- the nitrogen will be available for the next crop. So your next crop CAN BE a heavy nitrogen feeder -- there should be lots of nitrogen there. Also beans do a surprisingly good job at breaking up the soil...maybe breaking up is too strong a word -- beans leave the soil very light and well blended with good aeration. Beans are not heavy feeders and therefore you don't need to worry about them depleting the soil of anything in particular, a basic application of manure should restore things. -- The Second concern of crop rotation is ; pests -- what pests did the beans attract ? Generally beans attract slugs and the sort of insects that feed on tender leaves (as young beans have very nice tender leaves) -- so ideally you want to plant something that these insects/slugs don't feed on -- something like tomatoes (their leaves are not suitable -- or tend not to be suitable for slugs). Then review what you would like to plant -- and determine the plant that best suits the conditions. Nightshades tend to be the most typical choice to follow beans -- Nightshade is a family of plants that includes tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes, and peppers. Since you are probably already set up with poles - I might go for indeterminate tomatoes (which are really vines and require support).
12 Nov 22, (Australia - temperate climate)
will my climbing beans flower again when the possum eats all the flowers
Showing 1 - 10 of 261 comments

Soak over night - up to 12 hours then plant.

- Anonymous

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