Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        S S            
          T T          
          P            

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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03 Aug 09, MuddyKnees (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Lat year I noticed an ad for growing tomatoes very prolifically (300% !!) by some "secret" method. My first thought was " there's hardly any real secrets in gardening.. or are there?" It seems the procedure involves the eventual removal of ALL leaves AFTER the fruit has set.. and strict pruning.. The seller claims that a tomato can get all the growth stimulus direct from the sun and that leaves just use up too much of the plants resources. I'm intrigued enough to try it this summer, if only to detrmine whether it is has any substance or is just a con. My reason for talking about it here is to hear if anyone else knows of this and has tried it? I intend to have two identical pots (size & soil) and grow a normal Daydream as a benchmark then apply this procedure to a second. I have always subscribed to the belief that " if something sounds too good to be true..etc.." but being a veggie gardener I'm always open to new ideas.. mine and others.. Nice if it works.
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02 Aug 09, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I planted a tomato at the end of summer and have it covered with an individual green house affair. It is now huge and too large for the greenhouse. Can I plant it in the garden now? (I'm in Sydney) or should I leave it in the pot. It has no flowers but a few buds that dont come to anything.
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26 Jul 09, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Allan, No need to pull your tomatoes - they may or may not set fruit yet with the colder weather, but if they're flowering they're still happy. Sounds like they'll make it through winter OK, and will set fruit when the conditions are right. Also when the fruit sets green tomatoes can stay on the plant through winter, then ripen when the warmer weather comes. Tomatoes ripen in warmth - they don't need sunlight to ripen, so you when they just start to turn colour you can pick then and bring them inside into a warm spot - putting them in a bowl with a ripe banana and a paper bag over the bowl works a treat.
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26 Jul 09, allan (Australia - temperate climate)
i am in adelaide i have sevreral tomatoe plants growing about a metre high with lots of flowers mid july will i get fruit from them or should i pull them out and plant more later /? please help a novice cheers allan
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19 Jul 09, Naomi (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi everyone, I live in far North QLD it's Very humid hear most time of the year and we get no Frost in winter. I'm Growing Grosse Lisse tomatos i have flowers and fruit starting at the moment. I'm trying to find out if i need to start planting new seadlings?? or will they just keep producing fruit?
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08 Jun 09, Tania (Australia - temperate climate)
I was wonderring if anyone knows where we can get seeds or seedlings to grow Winsall Tomatoes from? I have seen the name on the net and would like to get some to grow for my husband who is a Winsall as a surprise.
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16 May 09, jared (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes i have heard of removing leaves from the plant and i gave it a go and the results are amazing, Im testing out a theory i read about it involves trimming all leave branches from the ground to the first fruit truss, then pinching out all flowers accept the 3 or 4 most healthy looking ones and leave them to grow, then when the next fruit truss comes along do the same but only leave 1 leaf set inbetween each fruit truss do this until you get 4 trusses then trim the top and keep pinching out all of the laterals that come along. i did this with Marmande and Big boy's.
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13 Apr 09, Cris (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Not enough people know about them and they don't travel well, so you rarely find them in a shop. Best tasting tomatoes ever though! Cheers cris
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12 Apr 09, Steve (Australia - temperate climate)
I have been growing Ox Hart Tomatoes for the last 3 years after been given some seeds. Why are they so scarce because they taste great?
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07 Apr 09, Annie (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi everyone, great site! I have about 15 cherry tomato plants that have self-seeded in amongst other veges. They currently have lots of green tomatoes. Have read previous tips about ripening them and will try that, but was wondering if they are any good green if they don't ripen?
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Of course there are lots of factors (soil watering etc.), I\ll point out a few you may have issues with. I'm a little concerned about your night time temperatures harming the growth or steady growth of your tomatoes -- in addition Blossom drop will occur in if daytime temperatures are warm but night temps drop below 55 F. (13 C.) -- a condition that can easily occur in a greenhouse in winter. When you look at days to harvest for tomatoes -- they are assuming spring/summer growing -- which means the NUMBER of daylight hours is HIGHER. Your area may drop from 12 hours of daylight in summer to 9 in winter.... that's a big difference. Additionally the INTENSITY of the sun is not as great in winter as it is in summer. This means the plant is not collecting as much light. I would GUESTIMATE you need to at double the DAYS to harvest to account for your growing conditions. If you decide to go forward I would opt for varieties that tend to grow well in colder climates that NATURALLY have less intense sun and shorter days (or install lighting if you don't have it and perhaps some heat). REMEMBER your soil temp needs to stay at about 16c -- so if your pots are on the ground or if you are planting directly into the soil, the cold may creep into the soil from below. There are specific tomato varietals bred for cold hardiness which will tolerate conditions at or below 55 degrees F. (13 C.). The best choices for colder climates are short to mid-season tomatoes. These tomatoes set fruit not only in cooler temps, but also reach maturity in the shortest number of days; around 52-70 days. I would look to some indeterminate cherry or plum size tomatoes (so small tomatoes) with very low days to harvest. I have never grow this tomato -- but -- Originally developed for cool rainy nights, Quedlinburger Frühe Liebe (or as I like to say, QFL) is a German heirloom tomato variety that’s ready for harvest in just 40 days after transplanting (!!!) and keeps producing until killed by a freeze. This makes it quite an amazing all-season plant and a real keeper in the garden if you’re prone to cold snaps. QFL is sweet and flavorful with small, juicy red fruits ==> tomatofest (internet site in the USA) says : Old German potato-leaf variety means "Early love of Qued Linburg". Small spindly vines produce 1 1/2-inch, round, 4-lobed fruit in clusters of 4. These tomatoes have great flavor with good acidity. Developed for cool rainy nights. Prolific even during colder summers. **** you really need to review the conditions in your green house -- day and night time temps, hours of sunlight --and you need to choose your variety wisely -- and even then, this might be difficult -- a lot depends on your greenhouse.

- faith Celeste Archer

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