Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
              S S S S S
T T               T T T
P                 P P P

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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15 Sep 08, Steve (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, I've been planting tomatoes for the last 2 years with success. However, last years fruit were a bit powdery. Any tips on how to stop that? The only thing i add to the soil is compost and occasionally soluble plant food. thanks
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17 Sep 08, gareth (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Steve: it could be that the soil has been drained of its nutrients because tomatos take huge amounts of nutritions perhaps put some beans in the soil as bean put nutrients into the soil
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02 Oct 08, SONYA JONES (Australia - tropical climate)
I didn't have much luck with tomatoes this year. They just seem to wilt and die. I can't see any evidence of pest or disease.
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14 Oct 08, Ron (Australia - temperate climate)
Does anyone have figures for the average water requirements for tomatoes and cucmbers in Melbourne sandy soil?
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15 Oct 08, Frank (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am new in Canberra, can someone give me tips on when and how to plant tomato plants in garden.
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16 Oct 08, Grahame (Australia - temperate climate)
Frank, I used to live in Canberra and the rule of thumb was that you shouldn't plant your tomatoes until you know the winner of the Melbourne Cup. But if you are growing them from seed, you can get them started earlier if you have a nice sunny window sill. Basically, you don;t want the frost to get them so if you do plant them out just keep an eye on the weather and cover them up if it looks like frost.
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19 Oct 08, Jaci (Australia - temperate climate)
Latest advice I got was this: Don't over water or feed your tomato seedlings!!! Your aim should be to deprive the seedlings of much water and fertiliser until they begin to bear fruit. That's right, when growing, feed them NO fertiliser and very little water! Just give them a pinch of Potash (Sulfate of ---) to strengthen the stem and the occasional watering when young. The trick is to make the plant think it is going to die (sort of like lowering its metabolism), so that it flowers and bears fruit earlier. You should note that the tomato plant WILL need extra fertiliser/water once it begins to fruit. You can also ripen your tomatoes inside the kitchen once they begin to change colour - there's no need to wait for them to ripen on the vine. It is said to dilute the flavour and increases the chances of letting the pesky birds get them first.
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27 Dec 10, brett (Australia - tropical climate)
i have grown tomatoes in my home garden and its 2 months now but i get only few tomatoes .how can i bring more fruits to plant.which fertilizer should i use .i am living in melbourne thank you
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20 Oct 08, Grahame (Australia - temperate climate)
Jaci, I think that is a good way of getting your tomatoes to set early fruit. But I don't think there is any need to treat all you tomatoes quite so harshly. When it gets hot in the summer they tend to get punishment enough. I reckon you should treat some of your tomatoes more kindly so that they can develop strong root systems to get them to bare well through the summer. That doesn't mean you have to treat them with kid gloves but it could help extend your season.
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20 Oct 08, bert (Australia - temperate climate)
I like to know were I can buy "agri fleece " my neighbor brought a piece back from the U.K helps against pests etc. I like the hint about short lengths of copper wire bye Bert
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Showing 11 - 20 of 595 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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