Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
              S S S S S
T T               T T T
P                 P P P

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

02 Jun 22, KATE (Australia - tropical climate)
Tomato seedlings get up to about 2 inches high, then just fall over and die. Spinach did the same. In tropical Darwin. Tried growing seedlings in trays first, plant them out only to loose them about a week later. Trying to Grow in a raised bed as no success into garden soil. Raised bed built mostly of potting mixtures with bags of compost and sand added. Lots of Dynamic lifter, turned over and left fallow for the wet season. Seedlings did the same death rate in the raised bed. What am I missing. Been here for 3 years and first season crops were really abundant. Now everything dies except for my Lime, Lemon and Guava Trees. Is it just to hot for Tomatoes and spinach now?
06 Jun 22, Anonymous (Australia - tropical climate)
Tropical climate - plant tomato seeds May, transplant June and July. Your soil mix is very porous, it would dry out very quickly especially in hot Darwin. And with watering it would leach out the fertilisers. With your soil mix you probably needed to water 3-4 times a day. The wet season probably leached all the Dynamic Lifter out of the soil. Ok- potting mix has a lot of wood in it. Material like this grabs the nitrogen before the plant does. Compost would do the same if it is not completely broken down. Here is what I do, sub tropical, in the fallow season Nov to April, I dig/turn my soil over adding grass clippings, shrub trimming etc mulched with the mower. With normal rain it will keep this moist and help break down the grass etc. You can add a little D Lifter. By late April /early May after the wet season you should have some good friable soil (depends what the original soil was like). You could add some more compost if you like and maybe manures, about 3-4 (?)
01 Mar 22, Gary Hall (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Did anyone else have problems with tomatoes this year I had to convert back to my tiny Toms ( skin too tough for those pesky pests next year I going back to Nicotine spray that'll knock them around a bit) .
07 Aug 22, Tom (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My summer toms had a lot of rust but I kept cutting out the infected foliage and the rest of the plant produced just fine. The vines didn't look great but I had bumper crops of large, delicious tomatoes. Also a long season the seed came up in early spring and they produced for 6 months.
10 Mar 22, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have a problem with wilt at the moment - never had it before. Very annoying.
04 Mar 22, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I don't have much problems with cherry tomatoes - other varieties the pest generally get to them and yellow leaf curl virus. I'm going to try double layer of bird netting I bought cheap.
27 Dec 21, Pete (Australia - temperate climate)
I am living near Wyong NSW and have a bit of a problem with my tomatoes. I live in a retirement village which has veggie plots and have acquiried one. Lots of the tomatoes grown wilt from the bottom up, until al the plant is dead except for the tomato fruits. Does anyone know how I can avoid this?. The wilt seems to affect the quantity of tomatoes.
27 Aug 22, Gary Hall (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Try using a small hot house or growing tunnel
07 Jan 22, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.
31 Dec 21, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
They recommend you only plant tomatoes every 3 yrs in a bed. Helps reduce disease. I have the same problem with lavender, 3 plants going great, two weeks ago one just wilts and dies, ??
Showing 11 - 20 of 595 comments

Does anyone have figures for the average water requirements for tomatoes and cucmbers in Melbourne sandy soil?

- Ron

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