Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

02 Jan 23, Irma (USA - Zone 9b climate)
I always gets my seeds From Burpeeā€™s online. They have always yielded great amount of tomatoes.
14 Dec 22, DENNIS (USA - Zone 10a climate)
I'm looking for a large juicy tomato to just plain eat whole. Looking for a good producer. Can't seem to find a recommendation for my area!
18 Dec 22, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Google big tomato varieties. Most crops will grow from cold weather to hot weather, just have to plant at the right time of year for your area.
31 May 22, Iris Sullivan (USA - Zone 11b climate)
where to buy tomato seeds for tomato plants that can withstand 11b climate.
19 Jun 22, susan pawley (USA - Zone 10b climate)
its really hot and humid in south east florida. too far inland for any sea breezes too. I had great luck with a variety bred by UofF for growing here called Floridade. Another one also bred for south fl climate is Talladega and Amelia. I havent grown them for a few years I think I got the seeds on line at rareseeds.com but not sure. Only getting back into gardening last winter as Ive been on hiatus due to illness.
29 Apr 22, (USA - Zone 10b climate)
Any tips for growing tomatoes during the summer in zone 10b USA?
29 Jan 24, Janine (USA - Zone 10b climate)
Move them indoors under a grow light (or in a sunny window) from July through September so they won't burn. Some cultivars are more heat resistant and will survive the zone 10 summer outdoors.
09 May 22, LouElla Chevalier (USA - Zone 9a climate)
Use shade covers. I set 4x4's . 8' high. 40% white shade cloth. Prune bottom leaves to insure plenty of air flow. You can get a higher shade cloth, for your zone, I would get a 50% white shade cloth. I only use mine for late May, June, July and August. I take them down when I see the temps go below 95 deg. I also mulch to retain water. I do not water the leaves, only at soild level and in early mornings. During the hottest months, I water daily.
05 Apr 22, chris (USA - Zone 8b climate)
I am in Zone 8b and was expecting seedlings from a relative so i didn't start any myself. Now, that plan fell through. It's April 5 and I am buying seeds today. Should I start indoors or directly in the soil today? I would just buy new seedlings but I am going all organic again and organic seedlings are too expensive! thanks
10 Apr 22, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
You can look up the germination (seed hatching) temperature for various vegetables online. Compare this temperature to your soil temperature (even your air temperature to get an idea) -- the germination temperature needs to be met and sustained for the seeds to germinate (in addition to water, soil and presence of light for some shallow planted seeds). Most likely you will still benefit from starting indoors -- it all depends on temperatures AND which veggies you are planting - some veggies seeds have fairly low germination temps - beans, chard, mustard etc. Other veggies have very high germination temps: tomatoes, peppers etc. Remember that the germination temp needs to not only be met, it needs to be sustained. Since you can control your inside temperature - I would start my seeds indoors -- and potentially add a heating pad under the seedling tray. If you plant outdoors you can use a tarp to help warm the soil; I prefer clear elevated about 6" above the ground (like a green house) to help warm the soil when the sun hits it
Showing 11 - 20 of 82 comments

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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