Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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01 Jan 09, sally (Australia - temperate climate)
Is it too late to plant tomatoes if i plant them in the next day or two? planting would be approx 3rd Jan 09
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12 Dec 08, Liz (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Whoops, but the same comments apply to a pot, Tony :)
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11 Dec 08, Anthony Robert Dawson (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Errrm what bag? I am in a pot :)
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11 Dec 08, Tony Dawson (Australia - temperate climate)
I am growing a tomato plant in a large black plastic pot. I have used a specific tomato potting mix and initially was watering every day. Although there are quite a few tomatoes most of the bottom 2/3 of the plant has yellow leaves. Is there any way of saving the plant to allow the tomatoes to ripen?
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04 Dec 08, Perry (Australia - temperate climate)
I found some biological insecticide among my crops in the form of a few small web spinning spiders which are thriving in the warmer weather.
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03 Dec 08, Perry (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Rosie, I am only into my third crop of tomatoes ever. I seemed to have lucked on the ideal growing conditions. I am trying to be as organic as possible.You may find pics of pests at the google image search box, and remedies in google search. There's a short list of some villians in my Nov 14 post above, from Wikipedia. My crop is wilting a little in its first 30+ temps this week. Storms to follow, maybe.
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29 Nov 08, Rosie (Australia - temperate climate)
Perry someone suggested the little moths were actually 'white fly' and should be sprayed with oil or a soap based spray as they can get quite bad. However, i google them and I don't think they are my visitors. They are probably tomotoe moth (potatoe moth) - and they didn't sound like they would be helpful towards my tomotoes either. BUT when I went out again they were gone! They were only a few around - so maybe they are seasonal and don't hang around for long. They seem to have done any damage...
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29 Nov 08, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
I have four tomato plants in Sydney. Small holes are appearig on the green fruit. Also some leaves are turning yellow (lower leaves) What should i use for the small hole pest.
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29 Nov 08, Peter (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Green fruit is being holed 2-3 mil holes also foliage on some plants turning yellow. What do I treat the plants with?
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27 Nov 08, Perry (Australia - temperate climate)
I noticed those little moths ? flying from my little crop in large numbers when I approached too, Rosie. I didn't notice any damage from them. I will see if they harm the larger varieties this time.
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Showing 561 - 570 of 601 comments
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We often have issues like this in life. Tactful diplomacy is required. Tomatoes need 'consistent' water. this means that if they are continuously wet, rather than damp, they will not do well. l If they are 'wet then dry' they will suffer from Blossom End Rot due to irregular nutrient uptake and if they are too dry they will be slow to develop and often flower while quite small so that the plant can finish its life cycle before it dies. Brown and shrivelled leaves along with blotchy fruit suggests they plants are affected by soil born viruses. Soggy, wet soil will exacerbate this. Moist good draining soil is ideal for optimum growth and yield. Crop rotation and planting virus resistant varieties is also a MUST to control or reduce the effect of soil borne diseases. Slaters are normally only 'decomposers' and would generally only attack plants that are very stressed. Mushroom compost is already 'spent' and while can build up the soil it also increases the salinity. Trust this helps.

- Ken

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