Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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04 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
John, can you give more details on the "savage clip" please.
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13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Another tip - split or half eaten tomatoes on the bush - just let them drop. Next year you will automatically have self sown seedlings.
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13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Grown tomatoes for years. Last summer pruned / clipped quite savagely. Results amazing. 5 times the fruit and the more I trimmed the more fruit I got.
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09 Aug 09, margaret (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in the Dandenong ranges, victoria, I am inspired to raise seedlings of tomato rather than plant out seedlings from the nursery. It is August now, so, is this the time to plant the seeds for transplanting to garden in late September early October?
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08 Aug 09, Alison (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm ready to start my first vegie patch with beetroot, lettuce, carrots and tomatoes (applying companion gardening). Can anyone suggest a really good tomato? These so many varieties all boosting to be the best. Thanks!
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03 Aug 09, MuddyKnees (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Lat year I noticed an ad for growing tomatoes very prolifically (300% !!) by some "secret" method. My first thought was " there's hardly any real secrets in gardening.. or are there?" It seems the procedure involves the eventual removal of ALL leaves AFTER the fruit has set.. and strict pruning.. The seller claims that a tomato can get all the growth stimulus direct from the sun and that leaves just use up too much of the plants resources. I'm intrigued enough to try it this summer, if only to detrmine whether it is has any substance or is just a con. My reason for talking about it here is to hear if anyone else knows of this and has tried it? I intend to have two identical pots (size & soil) and grow a normal Daydream as a benchmark then apply this procedure to a second. I have always subscribed to the belief that " if something sounds too good to be true..etc.." but being a veggie gardener I'm always open to new ideas.. mine and others.. Nice if it works.
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02 Aug 09, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I planted a tomato at the end of summer and have it covered with an individual green house affair. It is now huge and too large for the greenhouse. Can I plant it in the garden now? (I'm in Sydney) or should I leave it in the pot. It has no flowers but a few buds that dont come to anything.
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26 Jul 09, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Allan, No need to pull your tomatoes - they may or may not set fruit yet with the colder weather, but if they're flowering they're still happy. Sounds like they'll make it through winter OK, and will set fruit when the conditions are right. Also when the fruit sets green tomatoes can stay on the plant through winter, then ripen when the warmer weather comes. Tomatoes ripen in warmth - they don't need sunlight to ripen, so you when they just start to turn colour you can pick then and bring them inside into a warm spot - putting them in a bowl with a ripe banana and a paper bag over the bowl works a treat.
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26 Jul 09, allan (Australia - temperate climate)
i am in adelaide i have sevreral tomatoe plants growing about a metre high with lots of flowers mid july will i get fruit from them or should i pull them out and plant more later /? please help a novice cheers allan
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19 Jul 09, Naomi (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi everyone, I live in far North QLD it's Very humid hear most time of the year and we get no Frost in winter. I'm Growing Grosse Lisse tomatos i have flowers and fruit starting at the moment. I'm trying to find out if i need to start planting new seadlings?? or will they just keep producing fruit?
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Showing 741 - 750 of 816 comments
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Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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