Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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05 Apr 17, Aloese (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I have small tomato plants growing up now everywhere in my garden. Can they still produce fruits or it's the waste of time and get rid of them?
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07 Apr 17, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Unless your area is frost-free they are not likely to survive. We have them coming up in our garden because of a warm Autumn but the first frost will finish them.
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29 Mar 17, carolyn gladwin (Australia - temperate climate)
I belong to a community garden locally, and we seem to disagree on how to raise tomatoes! The tomatoes have mostly not done at all well. They are in raised beds but are watered thoroughly every night. Some of us feel they've failed because of too much water. They are watered low down but drenched! Most of the tomatoes are not formed properly, or never formed at all, they are mishapen, and motley. in other words barely usable. The leaves have browned and shrivelled. They just haven't looked healthy. They haven't been mulched because of the slater problem but have mostly mushroom compost dug in. Can you resolve this issue for us please?
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03 Apr 17, Mike (Australia - temperate climate)
You are over watering by far too much. Depends on the soil and stage of the plants growth. Small plant do not need as much water as older plants. Say 4 plants - small plants would only need a few seconds a day and older plants 30-60 seconds. The soil should be moist not wet wet. Soil wet for a long time goes sour. A good idea is to break the top of the soil after a good down pour of rain etc. Soil needs aeration. If you mulch the soil then water each 2nd or 3rd day.
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30 Mar 17, Ken (Australia - temperate climate)
We often have issues like this in life. Tactful diplomacy is required. Tomatoes need 'consistent' water. this means that if they are continuously wet, rather than damp, they will not do well. l If they are 'wet then dry' they will suffer from Blossom End Rot due to irregular nutrient uptake and if they are too dry they will be slow to develop and often flower while quite small so that the plant can finish its life cycle before it dies. Brown and shrivelled leaves along with blotchy fruit suggests they plants are affected by soil born viruses. Soggy, wet soil will exacerbate this. Moist good draining soil is ideal for optimum growth and yield. Crop rotation and planting virus resistant varieties is also a MUST to control or reduce the effect of soil borne diseases. Slaters are normally only 'decomposers' and would generally only attack plants that are very stressed. Mushroom compost is already 'spent' and while can build up the soil it also increases the salinity. Trust this helps.
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29 Mar 17, Dorothy Spinks (Australia - temperate climate)
I have grown tomatoes this year and there is no problem. Have you tried growing cherry tomatoes, they seem to the hardiest variety. My friend who lives near Gloucester NSW cannot grow tomatoes where she is. I hope this is of some help.
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19 Mar 17, Kaycee (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in a temperate climate and have an area to container plant ( wicking beds) that is reasonably protected. Is it possible to raise tomato seedlings in wicking beds now, and later transplant them into a green house that is not ready yet? Thank you for taking the time to let me know.
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19 Mar 17, Jo (Australia - temperate climate)
Raised beds such as wicking beds will still be warm so if the seeds germinate you could rise them and then transplant them to the greenhouse. The window for germinating tomatoes outside is nearly closed so I suggest you put the seeds in small pots and sink them up to the neck in the beds so you can move them up and re-pot them with minimal disturbance ready for the greenhouse.
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19 Mar 17, (Australia - temperate climate)
Tomatoes in Gippsland Vic. I had a bad crop of Tomatoes this year. The tomatoes ripened with a yellow blotchy appearance. What would be causing this?
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20 Mar 17, Jack (Australia - temperate climate)
Sorry to hear about your bad run with tomatoes. I also live in Gippsland (Vic) and had the same problem with some of my tomato varieties last year but not others. I understand it is called Tomato (or Tobacco) Mosaic Virus. It is soil-borne and can also be transmitted by smokers when handling plants. I would look for virus-resistant varieties for next season and don't plant tomatoes, potatoes or capsicums in that spot for 3 seasons. We planted 'Tommy Toe' this year and have had an abundance of fruit with no disease. TT is a golf-ball sized tomato that bears heavily and has a great flavour.
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I live on the North Shore, Auckland and have done container growing for several years now, This is the third year of growing tomatoes on a large scale - predominantly determinate varieties. I source my seeds from Kings Seeds who supply a determinate variety called Sub Arctic Plenty which I have experimented with variable results. All plants raised indoors, gently hardened off then potted out into 15L tubs. I use 50/50 new compost/previously used container soil from a non-tomato pot mixed well with added slow release fertiliser and half a cup of powdered eggshell.. The top is mulched with straw and 4 marigolds to attract the bees. They also need a 5ft stake. Generally the plants like the morning and late sun and need shade from the glaring hot midday temperatures. Each year I am growing them earlier to avoid the heat of summer. The pots on the decking facing North fully exposed struggled, the pots that were shaded midday grew much better. Next year I plan to plant out in July/August and see how they get on then. They have a mild taste, personally I prefer the richer flavours of the dark toms but they are good for dehydrating. I also found that they prefer dryer soil than some of my other varieties. I liquid feed them once a week using a litre of water. Don't let them stand in trays, they need full drainage. Any run off from the trays I use on something else (the pineapple sage is very grateful). Spay every part of the plant with a brew of bicarsoda to pre-empt and control powdery mildew weekly. Please let me know if you want any other info - happy to share. Let me know how you get on.

- Karen

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