Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
            P P P P P  

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - temperate regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 50°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 12 - 16 inches apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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29 Sep 08, sammy (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am currently obsessed with potatoes and cannot believe there is a potato forum thingy! So excited. The two varieties I am most interested in are Nicola and Dutch Cream. I'd love to know when the best time to plant these in Melbourne are, and the best way to grow them organically. Also, with regards to buying them and their appearance, what is the best way to tell them apart? I think it is that Dutch creams are smaller, rounder and redder? Is that right? Finally, I'm doing a bit of a gnocchi test and trying to figure out the best ones for gnocchi - any thoughts?
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31 Oct 12, Dallas (Australia - temperate climate)
sammy when your potatoes have reached a few inches high get a garden how and pull the soil up either of the plants sides that will give the plant the soil to grow in.I would have worked horse or cow manure into the soil before planting the normal guide to plant potatoes is the first week of Aug' that will give you spuds just before Xmas and plant again 1st week of march.It's best not to plant 2 crops in the same soil
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28 Sep 08, Grahame (Australia - temperate climate)
Mark and Kim, A word of warning on using old car tyres, while it is a great recycling idea there is a fair bit of evidence around to suggest that they leach cadmium, which you don't really want to be digesting. Also I think that cadmium can become quite concentrated in potatoes, so it's kind of a double whammy. If you are using the mounding technique with straw and compost it should be enough to make a wire mesh border to hold everything in and then you can just dismantle it and use it next year.
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21 Sep 08, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Kim, in some parts of the country it's illegal to plant potatoes which aren't certified seed, so you might want to check for your region. I've grown ex-supermarket potatoes (especially more 'unusual' varieties, like kippfler) just by covering them with piles of wilted weeds and topping up the cover as the shoots come through, or the car tyre method like Mark describes.
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21 Sep 08, Mark (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Place 4 sheets wet newspaper on the ground,add one car tyre. Into the tyre place a good handful manure and water well. Cut up your eye potato into pieces (each with an eye) and dry for a few hours. Place pieces directly onto the wet manure and fill tyre with compost or soil. Cover with sugar cane mulch and stand back!!! Plant dwarf bean seeds under the mulch = 2 crops in one, very quickly.
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17 Sep 08, Kim Flood (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Do I need to purchase special potato tubers or can I use supermarket potatoes that have developed eyes. What are the ricks with planting old supermarket potatoes (if any).
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16 Sep 08, Steve (Australia - temperate climate)
Can potatoes be grown in old horse manure or does something else need to be added??
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17 Nov 14, Kate (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'm new to growing potatoes or much else for that matter. My potatoes had started to sprout nice green plants about 6 cm tall. They seem to have been decimated I think by brush turkeys, I saw one near the patch but am also now thinking that they have raked the patch so other plants have not come up. There were also some fox droppings and also i think some wallaby droppings. Even though it is a bit late I'm going to plant again. How do I protect them?
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14 Sep 08, Addy (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Sandra, the 28 spotted lady bird - yellow with 26 to 28 black spots - is a pest that eats all the green leafy parts of potatoes, cucumbers, zucchinis, pumpkin! I just pick them off and squash them...
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12 Sep 08, Jaci (Australia - temperate climate)
As your potato plants grow higher, continue to mound soil/compost around the stalk higher and higher until it is time to harvest the crop/plant. New tubers grow out from the stalk which grows up out of the mounded soil. Exposed tubers turn green and become inedible. Some people place old tyres around the plants and fill them with compost to continue growth upwards. When the leaves begin to yellow off is about when the new taters are ready to pull up.
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I heard that the potato will stop sending nutrients to the tubers if the stalks are bent. One of the most successful potato harvests I have ever seen was a large container grown project where he used several layers (think of a layer cake) of horizontal plastic fencing and t-posts at each corner to hold the horizontal fencing to keep the stalks from bending at all and support them as they grew. They were able to get an absolutely massive yield with that method although he was sick all summer and didn't care for them or water them at all. I am not sure that the container growing was as pivotal in the results as just keeping the stalks from bending over. I have container grown before and will try it again this spring as well as ground growing using his methods to keep the stalks upright. I think another often overlooked issue is either too much or too little phosphorus and potash in 10-10-10 fertilizer. I think 'balanced' fertilizers can present real problems for root crops since they don't need or want balanced inputs. You will always have too much of something and too little of the other. Also there is a time delay on phosphorus while it stays in the upper part of the soil, so you can apply phosphorus to increase tuber formation, but it takes 3 months to disperse into the soil, while nitrogen sinks like a stone through soil an becomes almost immediately bio-unavailable (or runs off into the environment via water). So if you are using 10-10-10 you are going to end up poisoning your plants in order to get one or another nutrients available in the correct quantity. Plus factor in the time delay to bioavailability. I think it is better to thoroughly prepare soil before you put your garden to bed in the winter than prepare it in the spring (actually I have revived some fruit trees that were very old and no longer producing by fall fertilizing; I got almost $700 worth of organic pears and even more than this in apples last year through fall fertilizing). I also heard (and studied it last year in my own garden) that potatoes grow between the seed potato and the surface. If you bury them deep you will increase yields as there is more space for them to grow above the seed potato. But if you plant them shallow, they have a very narrow area to make potatoes in, significantly reducing production. This means in container gardening you need to put them at the very bottom of a 1'-6" (0.45 meters) tall container to get a full yield. I tried this method last year and doubled my production. I was putting them very close to the surface before last year. Also, potatoes need cool roots and won't produce anything at all if their roots are too hot in the container during the summer. Afternoon/evening shade is a must in Southern US zones or other hot environments. Or you could insulate or shade the container.

- Christian

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