Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
            P P P P P  

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - temperate regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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22 Apr 13, BARRY (Australia - temperate climate)
I have just harvested potatoe crop which appear to have a disease? A dark grey core with a rusty brown surround. Appears to be the start of rot? Can you help me?
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16 Apr 13, Lyn (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, I love your site its so informative! I'm new to vegie gardening and keen to get a potato crop going ASAP but have seen the recommended planting time for me is August. Does this apply if I'm planning on using a container? e.g. a large plastic rubbish bin. I live in a suburb of Wollongong NSW. I'm about 10 min from the coast so no frosts etc. My back yard has a concreted area that gets about 5-6hrs of sun in winter. Thank you :-)
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30 Apr 13, Sustainable Jill (Australia - temperate climate)
Potatoes prefer to grow when it's warm. Soil temperature should be at least 6°C. As you are in a pretty mild maritime climate that rarely gets that low you should be fine. See how you go! (Just remember to have some drainage in your bin or the potatoes will eventually rot!)
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02 May 13, Lyn (Australia - temperate climate)
Thank you Sustainable Jill, advice taken on board. I've recently learn't my lesson on drainage in pots. :-( I'm sure thats what caused the sudden death of a beautiful specimen of Acacia which was awaiting its garden bed. I'm sad and very annoyed at myself for not putting in better drainage holes! Now to find those elusive seed potatoes.....
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02 Apr 13, sharon (Australia - temperate climate)
I planted some potatoes 3 to 4 weeks ago. They have grown stems, leaves, flowers....which I just noticed have turned into little green fruit like baby Tomatoes. Is this normal, or can you advise what it is...what should I do please? with thanks.
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05 Apr 13, Ferran (Australia - arid climate)
that's some fast growing plants! After flowering they will die back, that is when you harvest. If the growth is out of proportion to your potatoes when you harvest then the soil had too much nitrogen promoting leaf growth and hindering the roots. my garden has some naturally growing potato left in the soil from last harvest spouted 4weeks ago and now flowering normally they would not be there but they were deeper than I was dinging at harvest. If you are practicing rotation cops do not!!!! plant corn or sun flowers after potatoes it stunts them. beans are good. potatoes should not be in the same place for seven years after seven years the chemicals that are put in the soil by potatoes as well as disease and pests should have gone from the soil.
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08 Apr 13, Sharon (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks for that advice....But what about my question re "They have grown stems, leaves, flowers....which I just noticed have turned into little green fruit-like baby Tomatoes ON THE STEMS. Is this normal"? - Sharon, Sydney
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10 Apr 13, Alice (Australia - temperate climate)
They are the potato "fruit" (potatoes are the tuber bits under the ground). DO NOT EAT THEM!! They're highly toxic. Chop them up, wash the seeds and plant them, and you'll get more potato plants!
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25 Mar 13, al (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in Albury NSW when is the best time to plant spuds
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25 Mar 13, Steve H (Australia - temperate climate)
I'd never grow spuds in the ground. It's too hard to dig them up without damaging them. Instead why don't you try this. Grab a plastic rubbish bin and put some holes in the bottom for drainage Put 3 inches of straw in the bottom covered by a bit of mushroom compost or soil for a bed. Add your seed potatoes or eyes and cover with 3 inches of straw and 2 inches of soil. Liberally sprinkle with a good quality fetiliser. Keep this blend damp. When the potato plants show through, cover again with the same mix of straw, fertiliser and soil. Repeat until the bin is full and then allow the plants to mature as they grow out the top. When ready for harvest simply tip out your lovely clean spuds
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Showing 371 - 380 of 563 comments
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I heard that the potato will stop sending nutrients to the tubers if the stalks are bent. One of the most successful potato harvests I have ever seen was a large container grown project where he used several layers (think of a layer cake) of horizontal plastic fencing and t-posts at each corner to hold the horizontal fencing to keep the stalks from bending at all and support them as they grew. They were able to get an absolutely massive yield with that method although he was sick all summer and didn't care for them or water them at all. I am not sure that the container growing was as pivotal in the results as just keeping the stalks from bending over. I have container grown before and will try it again this spring as well as ground growing using his methods to keep the stalks upright. I think another often overlooked issue is either too much or too little phosphorus and potash in 10-10-10 fertilizer. I think 'balanced' fertilizers can present real problems for root crops since they don't need or want balanced inputs. You will always have too much of something and too little of the other. Also there is a time delay on phosphorus while it stays in the upper part of the soil, so you can apply phosphorus to increase tuber formation, but it takes 3 months to disperse into the soil, while nitrogen sinks like a stone through soil an becomes almost immediately bio-unavailable (or runs off into the environment via water). So if you are using 10-10-10 you are going to end up poisoning your plants in order to get one or another nutrients available in the correct quantity. Plus factor in the time delay to bioavailability. I think it is better to thoroughly prepare soil before you put your garden to bed in the winter than prepare it in the spring (actually I have revived some fruit trees that were very old and no longer producing by fall fertilizing; I got almost $700 worth of organic pears and even more than this in apples last year through fall fertilizing). I also heard (and studied it last year in my own garden) that potatoes grow between the seed potato and the surface. If you bury them deep you will increase yields as there is more space for them to grow above the seed potato. But if you plant them shallow, they have a very narrow area to make potatoes in, significantly reducing production. This means in container gardening you need to put them at the very bottom of a 1'-6" (0.45 meters) tall container to get a full yield. I tried this method last year and doubled my production. I was putting them very close to the surface before last year. Also, potatoes need cool roots and won't produce anything at all if their roots are too hot in the container during the summer. Afternoon/evening shade is a must in Southern US zones or other hot environments. Or you could insulate or shade the container.

- Christian

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