Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P P P P      

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

24 Nov 23, Christian (USA - Zone 7b climate)
It is because it takes 3 months for Potash to become available in the soil. You always have to plan ahead when you are using Potash or, no matter how much you put on your tater plants they won't be able to access it.
02 Sep 22, Geri (USA - Zone 7b climate)
Not enough water or not enough nutrients. My guess is water.
19 Jul 22, dz (USA - Zone 10a climate)
I just read about Determinate and Indeterminate potatoes. Which varieties of Indeterminate potatoes do well in Zone 10A?
21 Jul 22, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Check on google what varieties are indeterminate and then see if any in your area.
13 Jun 22, Deb (USA - Zone 10a climate)
How late can you start growing potato’s? My first batch was planted March 20 but plants are already wilting back and I was wondering if I could plant more in June?
16 Jul 22, dz (USA - Zone 10a climate)
I live in Zone 10A and have been growing russet and golden potatoes in grow bags and large containers here for about three years, and I notice I can plant them year-round and they will grow, just slower in winter, and if we get an occasional frost, it may kill the top, and when temps hit around 100 or hotter the potato tops may die off also. No matter what time of year, my potatoes often grow for a few months and then the tops start to die off no matter the season or conditions, but I don't know why, so when that happens, I'll reduce the watering for a couple weeks and then harvest. I try to do "succession" planting, so I always have some potatoes growing, and am still experimenting with what works best, especially trying to learn more about correct watering for the Zone 10A conditions. I do have better success, producing more and larger potatoes, with 10-20 gallon and larger containers than the 7-gallon fabric grow bags.
17 Jun 22, Anonymous (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Check the planting times for your zone.
13 May 22, Kathy Blackburn (USA - Zone 7b climate)
What sweet potato is good for zone 7b Long Island NY
18 May 22, anonymous (USA - Zone 7b climate)
Probably any.
30 Aug 21, Bonnie Hawks (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Can this area plant. Potatoes/sweet potatoes in the fall?
Showing 11 - 20 of 64 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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