Growing Capsicum, also Bell peppers, Sweet peppers

Capsicum annuum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
S S             S S S S
T T T             T T T

(Best months for growing Capsicum in Australia - arid regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 18°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 20 - 50 cm apart
  • Harvest in 10-12 weeks. Cut fruit off with sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Egg plant (Aubergine), Nasturtiums, Basil, Parsley, Amaranth

Your comments and tips

02 Dec 12, sean (Australia - tropical climate)
indeed you can grow capsicum melb way diane im geelong way we have simalar weather i have had no trouble my friend ive had a plant last me 5 years every year more fruit green capsicum may have lived longer its life was cut short due to children breaking limbs.
16 Apr 11, Katelyn (Australia - tropical climate)
This will be the 7th year of Capsicum farming on the same property although this year we’ve had some trouble with weather conditions. We had approximately 21 inches of rain recently which has stunted the growth of the plants and fruit. Although my question refers to why some of the plants have recovered better than others when they are in the same soil exposed to the same conditions, water and chemicals. Yet the difference from one row to the next, a mere three feet apart is very clear that some have more resistance than others, what can cause this and how can I improve the overall recovery?
07 Aug 08, Mary Ann Derequito (Australia - tropical climate)
I have grown capsicums as big as footballs using crocodile manure as a fertilizer. They bear from August to January. I have a special soil mix which I am prepared to share with anyone who is interested.
06 Aug 08, laura (Australia - tropical climate)
We live on acreage in Far North QLD.Had the idea of growing caps and chillis but were informed it is too wet and we don't have enough sun.Is this true or is there a way around this?
03 Aug 08, Rebecca (Australia - temperate climate)
My capcicums seem to be finished, all the leaves have wilted although they still have friut not fully grown...My question is. Do they have a life expenditure...Have mine just finished or do they need me to do somethoing...I have others that are still growing and looking healthy. They are different veriety..Please help....I hate to see them wilting..
03 Aug 08, Rebecca (Australia - temperate climate)
My capcicums seem to be finished, all the leaves have wilted although they still have friut not fully grown...My question is. Do they have a life expenditure...Have mine just finished or do they need me to do somethoing...I have others that are still growing and looking healthy. They are different veriety..Please help....I hate to see them wilting..
04 Jul 08, chris (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
my caps, are all getting a tiny pin hole in them, and there is silk inside. would fine mesh restrict the sunlight
15 Jan 08, liam pilsworth (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
why wont my capsicums grow big like the ones in the shop do you have any ideas?
14 Jan 08, margherita (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
We live in subtropical Queensland, and have great difficulty in preventing capisum from falling prey to caterpillars. any suggestions?
08 Jan 08, daniel (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
sally,i have approx 30-40 chilli plants which most are fruiting really well,but i have recently added 12 mexican chilli plants to my garden and they seem to having the same problem as yours.they are planted in containers and i always use the same fertilizers and potting mix as i know it works well on my existing plants.the new plants have almost become plastic like and the new growth at the top of the plant has become stunted-plant still is green and healthy looking though? i live in brisbane and we recently got a lot of rain followed by pretty extreme sunny hot days. also,can anyone advise me on knowing when your chillis are ready for picking,as all the seeds i used for my plants are from red chillis and i seem to have a lot of green fruit that has been on the plants for a few weeks going on a month.i would hat to waste them as i have had a few drop off which i have cut up and put in a jar of good olive oil-a awesome italian oil trick i got from a mates mother from italy-she provided me with my sedds.
Showing 421 - 430 of 430 comments

Hi Jen, This is a bit late because you are maybe 2 months into your work but I planted a similar garden in raised beds at the start of Sep/16, my first time with most of these plants. Put the strawberries in their own patch because they have different requirements to everything else and will try to invade the surroundings via their runners (stolons). Try to keep stolon production to a minimum unless you want baby plants, in which case let the runners root in separate peat cups and then cut+transplant when they look big and healthy, but not too big because they will punch through the peat and start rooting in the bed where they sit (you can use plastic instead of peat, but the peat ones go straight into the ground when you transplant). I had mediocre fruit production when the strawbs were planted last year but mega crops this year (27 plants). Don't keep them too wet, be on regular lookout for slugs, tear away old leaves which promote rotting and fruit turning, fortnightly seaweed with a splash of fertiliser for the leaves. Rosemary becomes a full-grown bush - put it where you would want a hedge and cut it back twice a year, esp after flowering, to encourage a nice full shape (it will shoot rather vertically otherwise). Rosemary doesn't need much water or fertiliser, I use some slow-release and let rain do the rest except for prolonged dry spells. Zuccs and cukes get quite large, so make sure you allow at least a foot between plants because they come on really quickly from seedling. I got fruit in about 2 months and they are still going now, don't let the fruit sit too long or they can get quite huge quite quickly, tending towards being woody. Zuccs I find can start to yellow when the flower falls off, so keep an eye on that. Also give the cukes some support to climb, otherwise they will just spread like a kind of moppy mess over the garden bed. Basil I did from seeds, they are annuals so just get a packet and put some down about a foot in front of your tomatoes, they do well as companions. The basil can get to about 1-2 feet high if really happy. Capsicums I managed 6 in two rows of 1.2 m, they are quite slender plants and don't need heaps of space like tomatoes or zuccs. These are nearby the tomatoes as they have similar requirements. I also chucked in two chilis that look very happy, consider this as you get capsicum + basil + chili + tomato in one go = a meal waiting. Lastly toms - IMO the most difficult to keep happy. They need more water and fertiliser than the other guys and get wilty more quickly in hot weather. My main tips in my second year with cherry toms is to limit the number of branches you allow, because they will get tall and thick really quickly. I planted mine 1 ft apart but they are a little too close, I'd try 2 ft next time around. You need staking or cages obviously, but in 3 months my toms have gone from 20 cm to about 4 ft, so be prepared for them to outstrip your initial heigh expectations if they are happy. If they are intermediates, they will try to off-shoot at every junction (you can see the baby shoots at the V-intersection between two existing main shoots), so pluck those away everywhere except at the top. You'll also want to thin the tom leaves out because they will get thick and happy and green, but at the expense of fruit. Also remove the lower tom leaves as they can get a bit soggy and disease prone. Buy yourself some garden twine because you'll be at it every week or two to keep the toms supported. I find the toms are quite temperamental, they are prone to yellowing and disease. Keep an eye out for caterpillars, around spring they can come without warning and start putting holes all through your leaves and fruit. I was out daily for about a week in October crushing hundreds of tiny little green caterpillars before they could decimate the plants. Also after excessive water some toms can split, so take those off the vine and refrigerate - eat quickly before they spoil. Any green toms that fall off you can put them next to bananas in the fruit bowl and they'll ripen up nicely. I find my collected unsplit toms last 1-2 weeks in the fruit bowl. Taste is beyond anything in the supermarket! That's my experience, hope it helps. Oh last thing - use good soil to start up, I was filling raised beds so I bought new soil. Next year I will rake in my first year of compost when re-doing the used beds. If you have good soil and it drains, you don't need to do anything else like sand. I used raised beds because I am sitting on clay-type soils with lots of shale under the surface = no good for veggies.

- Tom

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