Growing Beans - dwarf, also French beans, Bush beans

Phaseolus vulgaris : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug
S	S	S	S
T	T	T	T	T
P	P	P	P

(Best months for growing Beans - dwarf in Australia - tropical regions)

S = Plant undercover in seed trays
T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
P = Sow seed

Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
Space plants: 5 - 15 cm apart
Harvest in 7-10 weeks. Pick often to encourage more flower production.
Compatible with (can grow beside): Sweetcorn, spinach, lettuce, summer savory, dill, carrots, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers, tagates minuta (wild marigold)
Avoid growing close to: Alliums (Chives, leek, garlic, onions) Sunflower

Your comments and tips

24 Oct 19, Phil (Australia - temperate climate): I usually have no problems growing dwarf beans. However this year I am having all sorts of problems. The seeds come up but look anemic. Yellow some hole and eventually die. I have fertilized, sprayed. Perhaps it's something in the soil. Any guidance most appreciated.
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27 Oct 19, anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate): I have a virus called tomato yellow leaf curl virus in my tomatoes. I read the other day it effects other crops, beans included. In tomatoes it is carried by silver leaf white fly. It stunts the plant and the leaves are small, curled and yellow. Could be that.
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04 Feb 19, Srini (New Zealand - temperate climate): Does Dwarf French beans die after 1 harvest. The plants had an excellent produce and seem to start dying (with yellowing leaves) after the first harvest.
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05 Feb 19, mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Could be lack of water fertiliser and even end of growing season. I'm sub tropical and don't know temperate. You still have very hot days in summer - I don't grow in summer. Don't let the beans become too old before picking. I generally had 3 pickings in the spring.
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13 Feb 18, Teresa Manwaring (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Hi nice to be on board , could you tell me if to late to put in some more snake beans , thank you Regards Teresa .
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16 Feb 18, Darren (Australia - arid climate): If you click on the "Planting now" tab at the top, it will show you what can be planted for your chosen climate each month. For sub-tropical, you can plant both dwarf and climbing beans.
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19 Nov 17, nathan ayienda (Australia - temperate climate): I need samantha french bean seeds from usa
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20 Nov 17, Mike (Australia - cool/mountain climate): You probably can't import seeds from overseas for disease reasons.
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22 Nov 17, Steve (Australia - temperate climate): It seems you can in fact import Phaseolus spp. (excluding P. trilobus) — Grown in the United States of America — Certified seed sourced from California, Idaho or Washington into Australia. You must complete an application for Seeds for sowing. You can find import conditions for all types of things using the BICON database located here https://bicon.agriculture.gov.au/BiconWeb4.0/ Good luck :)
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08 Oct 17, Geoff Kachel (Australia - tropical climate): I have planted three separate varieties of dwarf beans in the past month with zero success. I've been told this is the wrong time of year for these plants, but I'm curious, wouldn't the seeds still strike? Everything else I've planted is growing really well, yet the beans won't even come out of the ground.
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When and if you plant your beans too closely together (or if you plant in the shade) - they will REACH for the light, becoming very leggy. Planting too close together stops the light from hitting the sides of the plant (plants in the middle are effectively in the shade with exception to the top portion), only the top portion of the plant gets sunlight and therefore the plant reaches that way.... "up". You could, if you were planting only one row provided the row ran N/S plant closely together because 2 sides get full sun (if rows run W/E the plants in the same row tend to shade each other -- plant large plants on the North side of rows that run N/S; this is Northern Hemisphere). That's why spacing is usually given as, between plants (within a row that runs N/S) and then the distance between rows (running W/E). Of course if you are planting on a steep slope, than run your rows parallel to the slope as a general rule of thumb This is the above ground portion of plant spacing. There is also the below ground portion of plant spacing: roots, water and nutrition. If you were to just look at the root (and ignore for a moment the above ground portion): tap rooted plants can be planted closer together than fibrous root plants, because the tap root goes DOWN, and fibrous spreads out and down. Companion planting takes root and sunlight requirements into account: for example: you can plant carrots AROUND a tomato plant ; because carrots don't need much light (and the tomato does), and carrots being a tap root don't interfere with the fibrous roots of the tomato plant, which just go around the carrot. Mind you when you pull the carrot you do disrupt the tomato a little; but not so much that I would be concerned. You can get more vegetables in a smaller space when you learn which plants can work as "understory" plants to others. When it comes to plant nutrition; spacing ensure there is enough soil to source the appropriate vitamins and minerals a plant requires. When planting tightly; or using companion planting you need to take into account that you are planting tighter than the recommended spacing and therefore increase the nutrition (manure/compost) in areas where tight planting is happening.

- FaithCeleste Archer

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Gardenate

Keep your garden growing - see what to plant right now

Growing Beans - dwarf, also French beans, Bush beans

Phaseolus vulgaris : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Your comments and tips

Gardenate

Keep your garden growing - see what to plant right now

Growing Beans - dwarf, also French beans, Bush beans

Phaseolus vulgaris : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Your comments and tips

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