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Showing 11041 - 11070 of 13854 comments
Broad Beans (also Fava bean) 12 Feb, adam (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Yep. Dipel's the go. You can get a,liquid form of Dipel which, for me, is easier to use. It's called SUCCESS. from Yates, and you use just 5ml in a litre. Just a thought.
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Broccoli 12 Feb, Andre (Australia - temperate climate)
We use Eco neem from OCP for caterpillars
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Eggplant (also Aubergine) 12 Feb, Cherri East (Australia - temperate climate)
I have small holes in my eggplant and when I crack the egg plant open there is a grub inside that is eating the flesh of the fruit. ?Any ideas on what these may be and how I can get rid of them in an organic way. I have alot of herbs in my garden and do not have a problem with an other type of pest on any other vegetabel, just the egg plant. The eggplant bushes them selves are healthy.
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 11 Feb, Cheryl (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have a rockmelon vine, I picked a rockmelon thinking it was ripe, the flesh was white, when is the right time to pick, I have 5 rockmelons on the vine that are mixed sizes, I dont want to waste anymore by picking to early, this is the first time I have grown them. I live on the mid north coast of NSW
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 22 Feb, Helen (Australia - temperate climate)
Just wait until the stem starts to break down where it joins the fruit - a ripe rocky will almost fall off when you touch it.
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 17 Apr, Brian (Australia - temperate climate)
Why are rockmelons tasteless the last few years. Live in Sydney and they are all tasteless. Occasion try again and again over many years. What's going on .
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Rosella (also Queensland Jam Plant, Roselle) 10 Feb, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My rosellas have red flowers up stem and are healthy bushy plants. Will they get more flowers on the branches? The few up stems would not be worthwhile.
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Carrot 09 Feb, Nick Innes (Australia - temperate climate)
What vegetables can i grow in the Adelaide Hills in Feburary that take about 12 weeks to harvest?
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Carrot 09 Feb, adam (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I grow carrots really successfully every year, twice a year. We don't have Carrot Fly in Australia, as far as I know.Carrots fork a lot when grown in freshly manured or fertilised soil. I grow them about 15 cm apart, the rows that is. I water the soil after raking it even. Then sow the carrots, and then put old fence palings over them and press them down a bit to get the seeds in contact with the soil. If it's sunny, I water the boards lightly every day for a few days, just to keep them moist. This is the trick to germinating the seeds. After a few days, between four and seven, Icheck by lifting up a board. If you see little green shoots that look like new grass, in the area you sowed the seeds, then you have germinated. I then lift the boards up about two inches or so, and put little bits of something under the boards at the ends to keep them there foe a few more days, to protect the new carrots from excess heat. After that, I just take the boards away, and I seem to get very good germination with this method. Carrots don't have a hard growing tip, so if they have to struggle growing down, they will twist and get weird shapes. Parsnips DO have a very strong growing tip, so I plant them together to get the soil opened up for the carrots. Hope this helps. Cheers.
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Carrot 07 Mar, Annerliegh (Australia - temperate climate)
That trick with the parsnips is clever.
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Carrot 14 Apr, Paul (Australia - temperate climate)
on this site it says to avoid sowing carrots and parsnips together?
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Carrot 02 Dec, Nathan (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I suspect you would plant parsnips at the start of the season, then sows carrots once the parsnips are done. giving you 2 crops from the same piece of soil, pulling the parsnips would make turning the soil easier before planting the carrots. (Unless this is considered a no-no as well?)
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Zucchini (also Courgette/Marrow, Summer squash) 09 Feb, Chander (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, I have got one Zucchini plant where I am getting lots of male flower but not female flowers. I had some female flowers before and had couple of fruits from this plant. But now its producing only male flowers. Also too many leaves have come up in the plant and noe of the leaves are growing bigger, all the leaves are cramped in a short area. Do anyone know the reason for this? do i need to cut the leaves a little bit to allow growth for leaves? I have one more plant and thats doing well, regularly giving fruit.
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Zucchini (also Courgette/Marrow, Summer squash) 17 Feb, Emily (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
HI there, Im having the same problem too! The zuccini plant keeps flowering but the buds are all male and then they seem to fall off and start to grow more flowers, but nothing is happening! does anyone know why this is the case? is anyone else having trouble? thanks EMily
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Rosella (also Queensland Jam Plant, Roselle) 08 Feb, Daphne Truloff (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My plants had an early crop when they were approx.70 centimeters, i would like to know if they will produce another crop. They are about 2 meters high now. Thanks Daphne.
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Zucchini (also Courgette/Marrow, Summer squash) 08 Feb, (Australia - temperate climate)
where do you get the seeds from a zucchini plant so you can replant them and grow more the next season
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Zucchini (also Courgette/Marrow, Summer squash) 09 Feb, (Australia - arid climate)
Inside the plant there are the seeds
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Tomatillo 07 Feb, Rose (Australia - temperate climate)
Our Tomatillos have what looks like a virus causing leaf curl. There are no aphids or red spider mites on the plants. Does anyone have any knowledge of this and what I can do to avoid this in the futhre - thanks
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Tomatillo 08 Jun, carl (Australia - arid climate)
just worms, use insect poison
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Watermelon 06 Feb, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Do watermelons get blossom end rot? I have a few melons that have a black rotting spot at the end opposite the stem that looks rather like blossom end rot. Is this the case and what can I do?
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Watermelon 24 Mar, Geoff (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi John.. The black rotton spot occurs when the plant has dried out when it has fruit on it. The vine must have a constant supply of moisture when fruit is growing. Hope this helps
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Watermelon 06 Feb, Veronika (Australia - temperate climate)
My question is if can be the watermelon plants overwatered? I've got the first fruit beautifully grown for almost the finished size, but the others are seem like going to die before grow to big. I was told that it needs plenty of water. Do I give it too much?
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Watermelon 15 May, mohmed (Australia - tropical climate)
too much water will make crack on the watermelon don"t over water plant please for your case i think you need Potassium
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Cucumber 06 Feb, Joe (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
To Bob (Jan 29) Dear Bob, I have a suggestion as to the problem with the palm tree. That's go to scrap merchant or dealer and purchase an old copper hot water cylinder and cut into sheet form and place in the ground in a vertical manner against the fence closest to palm tree, so when the roots of the palm come contact with the copper they will die whether this kills the tree I am unsure but I hope that you can sucessfully grow your garden and have plenty vegetables. Follow up if you have any queries via email
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Tomato 05 Feb, Rod (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Quite a few people had trouble this year with tomatoes. I had, what I thought was a good crop considering my back yard is badly shaded after lunchtime by big neighbours trees so I get maybe 4 -5 hours of direct sun at the equinox late Sept at very best. This is a challenge of itself, so you have to start under fluoros with the plants really close to the light to get enough light intensity. I have a big HPS & Metal Halide too, but they are expensive to run and while with practice one can get good results, I am broadly happy with a 4x4 ft fluoro to get my seedlings started at around 25 degrees (which the lights generate themselves during winter, using a very heath robinson incubator, which is just a polyester cloth cover to keep the heat in. I put in a $5 timer so, it goes off during the expensive power times and comes in at night and morning for 16 hours-ish when power is much cheaper. I managed to get a good crop this year. transplanting out Sep 1..... As Oct comes in the day length increases up to the 22 Dec where day length is at max, about 15 hours in the Sydney region. Tomatoes if well watered and well fertilized tend to grow strongly and if they are getting lots of Nitrogen and other necessary elements, will do this often to the exclusion of flowering for some time. They need (my observation using a light metre) about 10,000 lux of light for at least 4-5 hours or else they really struggle. To get this we are talking full sun for at least half the day and maybe the balance at 5,000 lux mornings and evenings so broken shade. That sounds like a typical sunny spot for some of the day, in the average suburban back yard. = mine. Commercial farmers in the flowering stage, up the Potassium levels, (it also helps with shortened day lengths) but this is to feed the tomatoes forming (more than anything else) and to keep the fertilizer regime balanced for the plants needs, using specialist leaf analysis. That is the first part, you want strong tomato plants and a good size if possible to sustain the fruit which will set, if indeterminate plants form 1-4 trusses high and maybe a lot more if you train the leaders and can string them up a bit higher or arc the stalks once the fruit has been removed and leaves trimmed away. To promote flowering what you need to do is make each plant reabsorb their own naturally occuring hormonal exudate which is given off from their own root system, (ref. ABC of NFT (Dr Allan Cooper) and which he explains deposits into the soil from the roots, under the plant during watering. I will explain the implications shortly. I grow in 10 litre trays heaped up a bit and 9 litre black 80 cent buckets, with holes in the sides, (I like everyone do not have unlimited resources, so I economise) so this helps them to flower fairly early, as I don't allow any or minimal run off, other than during rain storms, so my seeds planted in late June indoors under flouros and planted out 1 Sep, gave me lots of 150-250g tomatoes (Apollo F1) by November, but in the ground, this might be further delayed. (I ran out of tomatoes today for the first time 5th Feb) and there is 7 in our family I have been able to feed, plus the bush turkeys and possums have taken at least 1/3 of what I grew I have just layered and made 12 new tomato plants from the 2 best cherry tomatoes I grew, so expect to back in little tomatoes in a week or two. One commercial grower showed me, that once you are happy with the size of the tomato plant (in soil), stop watering it, and let it start to wilt. Outside summer this can take up to 3 or 4 days, (so I am talking serious plant stress) That will mean that it is readsorbing the hormone back from the soil, That reabsorption instructs the plant (yippee, it is time to make flowers!) Using this method and a very small pot, you can make tomatoes flower prematurely very easily. You will have to spray with organic design Dipel to kill caterpillars as stressed plants tell nature, come eat me please and the butterflies and moths will quickly oblige the call. Dipel will stop the caterpillars stone dead, and is harmless to humans, so there is negligible or no withholding period. Another tip I heard, but yet to prove is small amounts of Epsom Salts hand watered. It is a dodgy technique, but Magnesium is (if partially missing) is suddenly an important element. Dolomitic lime supplies this element, but can make the potting mix too alkali, and tomatoes seem happier acid at pH 5.5 to 6.5, & I have had good results down to 5.0 in peat, perlite and peat vermicullite blends with potting mix.....so I suggest the following to keep your pH right. Use granitic dust from your local soil supplier. 3% by volume is very good mixed into your soil plus compost or media. It will move the pH, but only very slowly over 6 weeks. It helps water holding capacity in the soil or potting mix, so if you have clay laden soil, use gypsum and it combined, as both have some real magic side effects re production and plant health, arguably by stimulating biological components in the roots and supplying other missing bits of the mystery jigsaw beyond the chemisty text books. One to two weeks seems to bring about big changes, once rock dust is applied, but its effect is only as good as the other limiting factors like light and good broad plant nutrition, and good drainage. I use a good complete fertiliser which contains balanced amounts of all fertilizer and trace elements. I mix my own fertilizer, which contains NPK plus calcium, sulpur, magnesium, manganese, iron, copper, molybdomen & zinc. That takes a bit of chemisty a spreadsheet and 5 bags of different bagged fertilizers, which I mix, so I suggest something much easier which works well also very well. Osmocote complete + Nitrophoska (both include all trace elements and both are slow release) added 50/50 @ totalling 30 grams fertilizer per 10 litres of growing media (in pots) I have found works nicely, and should have additional liquid feeds along the way. A standard not nec. premium Aus standard potting mix works well (save you some serious money) and the Osmocote has a very good wetting agent included, which helps keep everything evenly moist during the heat. The Nitrophoska has less Nitrogen so is a bit slower, but helps the flowering, but interestingly gives a nice deep bluish green to leaves, when I compared both fertilizers separately. Urea (Nitrogen source) is good for greening up) once again a suggestion by another market gardener), but you need everything else to be strongly supplied and balanced also, without any excesses. Nutricote is reportedly an excellent fertilizer. The nutrient balance is very good.....I have yet to read of a professional trial where it does not come in #1 or #2. Just make sure you get the right NPK and trace element type for or what would be suitable for vege gardening. If the fertilizer is two high in nitrogen, not so good, choose one where the K&N are close in % age terms. P is generally used in much lower levels than the other two, so don't worry to much here, so long as some is present. I grew cherry tomatoes this year with this mix and had huge amounts of fruit in Terrigal from October, growing in 4 inch deep trays. The key is small amounts of media, with as much of it open to the air as possible for root oxygen exchange (which is very critical to high productivity), but too small a container and your plant is a midget. 13 litres I have read, and pretty much proved myself, is the optimum. If you can grow in soil or a bigger pot, that is great as your tomato might be a bit or a lot bigger, but you will have to starve the plant on occasion to get it to start flowering. Currently running pot media trials, so if anyones interested email me. Interestingly my own home made mix made from a pile of grass clippings and everything that falls from palms and trees or recycled, mulched up and given a spray of water on occasion and some rock dust and fertilizer, then screened with an old tennis racket, is working as well as if not better than anything growing tomato seedlings after 2 weeks in 37 degree heat outside........seriously surprised!!! Forgive my long post, but hope this helps amateur growers just like me. Please note I am an amateur, so will continue to refine my techniques, which in 5 years might be a lot different, but so far, accoring to my limited budget this is what I have found works quite well. Good luck.
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Tomato 18 May, Jim (Australia - temperate climate)
Am keen to further explore the issue of stressing the plant to bring on flowers. Can you stress the plant to a point of no return and have the whole plant die. Any other side effects
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Tomato 17 May, Shaun (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Alternatively, you could ditch all the chemical fertilisers and just dig some wilted comfrey leaves into your soil and the tomatoes will sing an organic tune all the way to your table. That's all I use and I'm still harvesting now, 8 months after the first flush of fruit appeared.
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 05 Feb, Kate (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I'm about to try growing some RM in a garden bed. I've noted from a few websites to make sure they're well drained. I'm not too sure how this will go as the soil is quite heavy in clay. I've been preparing the soil for months now with lawn clippings, organic compost and mulch and claybreaker. Currently I have a crop of Jap pumpkin in there from which I've harvested four good sized pumpkins. My biggest problem is when about the size of an apricot, they rot and fall off the vine. I only water when the vine is wilting. If they grow larger I raise them by placing a terracotta saucer underneath them (have found this works well) but I lose so many before they are large enough to raise. Will the same happen with RM? BTW, my pumpkin self seeded and grew out the side of my compost bin. Nothing else has done this. Just pumpkin.
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Rockmelon (also Canteloupe) 06 Feb, Randy (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Kate, Your problem is lack of pollination, so the fruit wither and die. Worldwide, bees are disappearing and while there are theories, nobody knows for sure why it is happening. Pollinate them yourself with a small paint brush or cotton bud, wipe some pollen from the male flowers (these are just a flower on the vine) and wipe it onto the stamen in the middle of the female flowers (these have the small fruit behind them). Good luck. - Randy
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Onion 04 Feb, stuart (Australia - temperate climate)
plant onions on the winter solstice
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Showing 11041 - 11070 of 13854 comments
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