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Cabbage 08 May, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate): A climbing bean could shade cabbage and it would not produce much. Depends where you plant the climbing bean in relation to the sun's position in the sky. Plant tall plants on the southern side of the bed.
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Rhubarb 01 May, Julia (Australia - temperate climate): I planted rhubarb around 7 months ago, the leaves have grow huge and some are mottled and unhealthy. I know I am not supposed to harvest for the first year...so how do I treat the plant? Do I just leave it be, or do I need to trim it or remove leaves? Does the same stalk stay until harvest time? Please advise care of plant in first year of growing until harvesting time. Thank you so much! Warmest regards
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Rhubarb 08 May, (Australia - sub-tropical climate): If unhealthy pull them off. Look up a natural spray for leafy veggies.
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Radish 01 May, Alice (Australia - temperate climate): My Grandfather always mixed radish seed with carrot seed in river sand and this help to thin out the carrots, not only because of the two types of seed, but because as you harvest the radishes - starting with the new shoots that are a great micro green, and this in turn thins carrots out :)
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Radish 08 May, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Or just put sand with radish or carrots in a salt or pepper shaker and plant rows only about 3-4 cm
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Watermelon 30 Apr, Sam (USA - Zone 10a climate): I’m in zone 10a Rialto ca and I’m wondering if it’s too late to start my watermelon seedling this is my first time ever planting something and I have many many many seeds of multiple vegetables and I have no idea when to start my seeds
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Watermelon 26 May, Lee (USA - Zone 10b climate): I am in zone 10a & 10b. Last year I started my watermelons on memorial day, not intentionally, and they grew really well. Today is memorial weekend and I'm planting mine now. I wouldn't say wait on purpose, I just moved so I had to wait, it never hurts to try. Because it was so late in the year, last year, I only planted 6 watermelon seeds in the ground and 5 produced. 4 of them had 4 watermelons and 1 of them had 3. I feel like these areas are capable of growing things almost year round regardless of the suggested planting time.
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Watermelon 21 May, John (USA - Zone 9b climate): How much direct sun did they have daily. I am growing under trees so it is not direct it seems to work thank you
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Watermelon 08 May, Anonymous (USA - Zone 6b climate): Each vegetable here has a planting guide for each climate zone. Find your zone in the top bar and check the planting calendar for watermelon.
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Strawberry Plants 29 Apr, Nick Sloan (USA - Zone 8b climate): what exact soil would you reccomend, should i put in it direct sunlight? and is it okay to water the leaves if it’s on a tier planter? thank you so much for your time
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Strawberry Plants 08 May, (USA - Zone 6b climate): Any good soil, direct sunlight, water low or in the morning.
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Capsicum (also Bell peppers, Sweet peppers) 28 Apr, (USA - Zone 10b climate): What is the difference between planting it in trays and sowing it
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Capsicum (also Bell peppers, Sweet peppers) 08 May, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate): A tray probably means a seedling tray. To sow is straight into the soil.
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Capsicum (also Bell peppers, Sweet peppers) 30 May, Jacq (USA - Zone 9b climate): Thanks! I had same question.
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Cardoon 27 Apr, Lorraine Harla (USA - Zone 8a climate): I use to live close to the Saw Mill Parkway in Westchester County in New York..I am looking for the Cardoon seeds that grew in that area. I notice there are several varieties. I would like to know where to purchase these seeds.
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Brussels sprouts 26 Apr, Lynda (USA - Zone 8b climate): I am a first time gardener with brussels sprouts. I live in zone 8B in Texas. We are at the end of April and the Google play said I can still direct sow the seeds and get a crop. Is this true?
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Brussels sprouts 08 May, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Plant now. It's worth a try.
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Jerusalem Artichokes (also Sunchoke) 26 Apr, Denise (USA - Zone 5a climate): An old timer told me if you wait until after the first frost to harvest the tubers they cause much less flatulence. He said before the first frost they call them fartichokes. : ) Planting for the first time this year and will definitely apply this advice.
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Beetroot (also Beets) 23 Apr, (Australia - temperate climate): I live in Geelong. I have various results with growing beetroot. At the moment the bulb size is very small. What can help with this?
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Beetroot (also Beets) 07 Jun, deidre (Australia - arid climate): Beetroots fill out more in warm weather. Other reasons for size variations include planting too close together or not enough phosphorus in the soil. Sowing a green manure crop will remedy nutrient deficiencies. Good luck!
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Beetroot (also Beets) 08 May, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate): I grow from seed, plant out when 3-4 leaf stage about 5-6
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Artichokes (Globe) 21 Apr, Cathy Krasnianski (USA - Zone 10b climate): Zone 10b. First year growing Green Globe & Violet de Provence. Both are doing very well. Not sure if necessary to prune down in late Fall, as our winters never go below 30 degrees. Haven’t found this info anywhere on the Internet.
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Artichokes (Globe) 02 Nov, Colleen (USA - Zone 10b climate): I'm also in 10b and I find they get really shabby looking if not pruned back. (I've never grown a hybrid variety, though...maybe they're tidier?)
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Artichokes (Globe) 21 Apr, SoCal BYGarden (USA - Zone 10b climate): I chop mine 2"- 3" above the base after they start turning brown late summer. They come back staring in Oct-Nov. Harvest starting February, last crop in May. Avoid year was pathetic just a few. 3rd year on I started giving them away because I had plenty.
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Garlic 20 Apr, Carol (South Africa - Semi-arid climate): Hi Feb to April is that the only time to grow Garlic in south africa Or is there another time slot Thanks
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Garlic 08 May, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Probably yes. If you could grow it other times it would say so. Plants need certain soil temperature to germinate and climate conditions to grow and mature.
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Savory - summer savory (also 'Bean Herb') 20 Apr, Jamal (Australia - temperate climate): How can one propagate summer savory from cuttings and when in Victoria, Australia.
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Savory - summer savory (also 'Bean Herb') 04 May, (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Google how to do cuttings of annual plants.
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Potato 20 Apr, Benjamin Chapman (Australia - temperate climate): I understand that "non specific" potato varieties don't need the soil to be mounded up as they grow. Where can I find a list which shows "specific" and "non-specific" potato varieties.
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Potato 06 May, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate): Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.
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