All recent comments/discussion

Display Newest first | Oldest first, Show comments for USA | for all countries
Showing 91 - 120 of 19651 comments
Watermelon 10 Feb, Rob Taege (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
After last year's disappointment of being so wet, this year has had lots of sun hours with intermittent rain. However, a few weeks ago I noticed two watermelon fruits had their skin punctured. I just chucked on them today and now half of my fruit has punctured holes in them. I have a few pukekos in the paddock that come over and pick my unripe tomatoes from the plants. Would they peck at watermelon fruit as well? If not, what other animal or bird would do this and how do I stop them? I'm 100% sure it isn't rats as the holes are punctured not gnawed, Any suggestions, please before I lose my whole crop.
Reply
Cardoon 08 Feb, Sofia (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Hi! Can anyone suggest varieties that are likely to overwinter and establish as perennials in Zone 6b? Thanks!
Reply
Watermelon 07 Feb, Lawrence Msibi (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
Which is best fertilizer to use in Mpumalanga for planting watermelons and when to apply such fertilizers. Furthermore, the pesticides etc when to start spaying my watermelons, Thank you so much.
Reply
Onion 07 Feb, Brenda (USA - Zone 5a climate)
What do you mean when you say plant out
Reply
Onion 07 Feb, (USA - Zone 5a climate)
Hi, it means to take the seedlings you've grown from seed, and plant them in the ground or bigger pots.
Reply
Onion 08 Feb, (USA - Zone 5a climate)
Thanks
Reply
Squash (also Crookneck, Pattypan, Summer squash) 06 Feb, Mike Johnson (USA - Zone 6a climate)
I have Georgia Candy Roaster squash seeds, Heirloom. Can they be grown in 6A?
Reply
Eggplant (also Aubergine) 05 Feb, Annette James (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I have 2 healthy looking plants of the large purple variety. They are producing flowers ok but no fruit. Any ideas on why this is happening?
Reply
Eggplant (also Aubergine) 12 Feb, (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
May be no bees - try hand pollination in the mornings.
Reply
Tomato 05 Feb, Barbara Shaw (USA - Zone 8b climate)
What should I pretreat my soil with before I plant tomatoes . They are pretty and then they get root rot on bottom. I heard calcium . Is there anything else Thanks
Reply
Tomato 20 Feb, jacob (USA - Zone 10a climate)
my understanding is that root rot is due to a lack of calcium, but calcium is usually plentiful in garden soil. the real issue is with inconsistent watering, meaning the plants cannot properly absorb that calcium. water more!
Reply
Tomato 24 Feb, Celeste Archer (Australia - temperate climate)
I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.
Reply
Tomato 03 Feb, Carol Edwards (USA - Zone 6a climate)
What is the best tomato to grow in my zone
Reply
Tomato 06 Feb, (USA - Zone 3a climate)
What ever variety you like to eat.
Reply
Rhubarb 02 Feb, Mark (Australia - temperate climate)
a. Rhubarb leaves - yellowed/dead leaf edges (removed from plant 30 Jan) b. Rhubarb - overall stunted growth & poor stem growth; rhubarb should be in abundance this time of year planted in raised beds good high organic soil Ph 7.6
Reply
Cucumber 31 Jan, filippo italiano (Australia - temperate climate)
hi have eg planst and the leaves ar curling and doing up can you recommend the cure for the plants thanks fill
Reply
Brussels sprouts 30 Jan, Greg (USA - Zone 7a climate)
It says to avoid growing close to tomatoes. What does "close" mean? 3 ft, 5 ft, 10 ft, 20 ft????? thanks for the help, Greg
Reply
Brussels sprouts 01 Feb, (USA - Zone 4a climate)
3' or so.
Reply
Sweet corn (also corn,maize) 25 Jan, Dot (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Is it ok to plant brassica (not celery) after corn, in the same spot?
Reply
Sweet corn (also corn,maize) 30 Jan, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Yes
Reply
Daikon (also Japanese radish, Lo Bok) 25 Jan, Angela Ojeda (USA - Zone 10a climate)
can you add cover crops planting information.
Reply
Carrot 25 Jan, Bill (Canada - Zone 6b Temperate Warm Summer climate)
Hello: I live in Zone 6B Stoney Creek. I would like to get 2 harvest of carrots this year but not sure when to plant seeds throughout spring, summer or fall. Can you please advise? I was thinking of planting Bolero Nantes carrot seeds. Thanks for your time! Bill
Reply
Carrot 09 Feb, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
I thought I might mention: after you harvest your first crop of carrots you probably have enough time to grow a crop of the smaller varieties of radish. Radishes: ******** Germination temperatures: ideal 15c - 25c acceptable 10c - 30c ************ Germination time: 5 -10 days *************** Growing temperatures: ideal 10c -18c intermediate to short day lengths -Growth must be continuous and rapid for good quality. Acceptable grow temps 4c – 24c. Roots of globe varieties tend to elongate and develop poor shape in hot weather when the tops also grow taller and larger than in cool weather. Long days induce flowering or seed stalks (bolting) and with warm weather the seed stalk may develop so rapidly that no edible root is formed *************** Days to harvest: Regular radish reach market size in 21 to 28 days. Chinese radish take 50 to 90 days (or more) to mature. ** A regular radish seed can produce a radish from planting to harvest in about 33 days. This crop also likes short day lengths and cooler temps making it an ideal crop to “squeeze” in late in the season, before the first frost. With a first potential frost date of October 15 – you could direct sow radish seeds like Cherry Belle, or French Breakfast (both with about 21 days to harvest from seedlings) on September 7th and reasonably expect to harvest your radishes before the first frost. You could also sow in trays and then plant them out… if real-estate is an issue, or if you need to get the radishes started before your harvest your carrots (timing) ************* Storage and Conditioning the recommended storage temperature is 0 C with a relative humidity of 95% to 100%. Topped radishes packaged in perforated plastic bags will keep for 3 to 4 weeks. Bunched radishes will keep 1 to 2 weeks. ********** Temperature information was gleaned from: ATLANTIC PROVINCES AGRICULTURE SERVICES and amalgamated with information from individual radish varieties such as Cherry Belle. ****** if you don't harvest your radishes on time they will be pithy/mealy
Reply
Carrot 01 Feb, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Use a shade cover while germinating the seeds - like shade cloth.
Reply
Carrot 30 Jan, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Best to check the planting guide for your climate zone. No chance to two repeat crops.
Reply
Carrot 28 Jan, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
Carrots: -- Germination minimum temp is 2c: optimum germination temp is 10c to 25c (the temperatures must be sustained). Seeds germinate over a 2-week period -- if crust forms on the top of the soil, germination will be restricted. *********** Optimum growing temps : 15C to 20C , with a minimum of 5C and a maximum of 24C Outside of the growing range (less than 5c or more than 24c) the carrot goes into "dormancy/holding pattern" with extreme temps killing the carrot. ********* Average days to harvest for carrots is 60 to 80 days. The days to harvest are calculated based on ideal growing conditions (temperatures/sunshine/water). *************** Having lived in your area MANY years ago – I can recall – and checked with environment Canada – Based on last year’s temp – June was a good month to start planting carrots – and September had decent carrot growing temps – as did the first week of October. I would plant carrots in semi-shade as Stoney Creek can get VERY HOT in mid-summer – and this is a problem for carrots that don’t like temps over 24c. ********* So, what I see is a total of 129 days of good carrot growing weather (June 01 – to the first week in October). You need 2 weeks for germination and depending on the type of carrot about 80 days to harvest: total of 94 days. If you plant starting June 01 – you can plant carrots every couple of weeks until around July 5th (07/05 plus 95 days yields a date in the first week in October). If you want to do only 2 plantings – then I would plant on June 01, and again the last week of June. This is based on 80 days to harvest – if you have carrots with a higher number of days to germination and/or days to harvest (like dragon carrots that take 90 days) – adjust accordingly. You need your last harvest in by the first week in October so count backward to find your last planting date. Bolero Nantes have the following stats: Germination 10 - 20 days and days to harvest 70. The site indicates that your last planting should be 3 months before your first expected frost date -- and it looks like your first expected frost date is October 15 -- which yields a last planting date of: July 15th which is a couple of weeks later than what I have calculated .... remember that Nobody can guarantee what your weather will be ..... when it comes to your last planting, I would error to the side of planting a little early -- and I would feel a little bit short on time with a July 15th planting...but I have heard of people planting later and doing just fine.
Reply
Jerusalem Artichokes (also Sunchoke) 24 Jan, Annie (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Im in zone 9, will my sunchokes come back if no frost?
Reply
Zucchini (also Courgette/Marrow, Summer squash) 21 Jan, Michael (Australia - arid climate)
Hey guys 2 questions if somebody can help , I have 5 zucchini plants all looking healthy had a few fruits yet am having many smaller yellow zucchini, I am hand pollinating in the mornings yet these turn yellow before the flower opens Second question Have Black eggplant plants , quiet large lots of flowers yet not a single fruit yet Any tips for a novice gardener ? Thankyou
Reply
Tomato 20 Jan, Kim (USA - Zone 7a climate)
What are the Best tomatoes for zone 7A to grow and fertilizer?
Reply
Potato 19 Jan, Dot (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
I want to get a crop in and I need to grow them in planter bags. Can I grow them in layers or only one layer per bag?
Reply
Showing 91 - 120 of 19651 comments
Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.